First thing to note, is that this was a very hot day indeed!
As such, we did our best to get out onto the route as early as possible to avoid the worst of the heat, particularly given that we would be doing a longer route. After tasty pancakes we headed out and managed to make it to the starting point of the free carpark in Groombridge just after ten o’clock.
As we got out of the car, the heat of the day was immediate. We also spotted a map for a “Tunbridge Wells Circular”, which we took a picture of and could be a good walk to do another time (in two parts probably). We turned and headed out through the village, up a steadily rising road. It took us a while to get out of Groombridge, which is fairly spread out, and by the time we hit the first footpath, we had picked up a reversed section of our Eridge walk from earlier in the year. On our last visit, conditions were significantly muddier and somewhat flooded. Today however, was the opposite. As we walked beneath a railway, beautiful weald-views opened up before us, revealing a gently rolling meadow of colour flowers. There were also an abundance of butterflies fluttering about, and one particularly large one decided to land on the bag which it was my turn to be carrying. It sat there quite happily for a minute, before fluttering away and eventually landing up in a tree. We began walking up the gentle slope amongst the continuing flowers and butterflies and other chirping insects. It was exactly as idyllic as it sounds. However, the glaring sun above was already bringing us out in a sweat, and there was very little shade to speak of along this first section. We broke into our water supply far quicker than we usually would and also identified a pub about halfway around where we could stop for additional refreshments and top up our water if needed – can’t help but feel this was a very smart and sensible move on our behalf! The instructions told us to look for a row of three pink cottages, however what we came across was three freshly painted white ones (we managed to figure this one out). Here we turned left, and began to descend. We again continued through hundreds of butterflies, mainly Cabbage Whites here, which were visible stretching away all across the field either side of us. The vast volume led us to decide that this could be the main butterfly settlement, which we tentatively named ‘Butthurst’. The butterflies were ever present for the remainder of the walk, but it’s fair to say that nowhere presented as many as the first series of meadows.
Shortly after leaving Butthurst, we crossed a road and descended through some woodland, at the bottom of which we walked alongside a small stream and through some blessed shade. The cool found beneath the glowing green canopy was welcome, but naturally eventually gave way to further open land and we felt the glaring sun’s return. When we did come back out into the heat, we found ourselves walking through a large red deer farm with correspondingly high fencing. However, we didn’t actually see a single deer on the farm, and so perhaps the fencing hadn’t worked. We also nearly went wrong, blindly following the farm track, but Beth quickly stopped us from wandering off in the wrong direction. Unfortunately, as we stood amongst the shade at the side of the path to consult the map, the day’s vast number of flies began to show a great interest in Beth, who grew rather flustered. We both got bitten along this stretch of footpath, and it’s fair to say we were grateful when we turned right into clearer walking. We made our way between houses down a drive, across and down the side of a fast road, and back into the rest of the deer farm on the other side. Here we went a bit wrong again, when the way-marker seemed to point into one of the enclosures. After arguing with the latch, we entered and walked down what looked like a path along the fields edge. A little way down, the path vanished, and Beth then noticed a very clear path on the other side of the fence to our right. We doubled back and began to walk back down the actual footpath. After climbing back up between some final paddocks, we arrived at a brief, cool, woodland section. This then led us along the edge of a field and to a road, which then brought us to a crossing of a busier road.
We crossed over to the obvious track on the other side and entered into some more shade. Whilst the shade was as relieving as ever, the path began to climb unexpectedly sharply. It was not a long ascent, but still made our legs ache, and we paused on a stile, looking at the sunny, open meadow before us beneath a perfectly blue sky. The path continued upward before levelling out, and the open, hilltop meadow, dotted with a few proud trees, came with a welcome breeze. We began to descend again, and walked along a tree lined path down into ‘Buckhurst estate’. At the other end of the long, well-kept driveway (halfway along which we met some very excitable and friendly miniature ponies) we arrived at the day’s refreshment point. This turned out to be the Dorset Arms, which were delighted to finally get the opportunity to frequent. We had driven past countless times, saying that we would like to visit one day – and so we did. We sat up in the shade of the beer garden and both enjoyed large fizzy drinks with ice. It was a very well-to-do pub, almost Goodwood-esque, and we both agreed we would like to come back for a longer visit. We finished our drinks (including the ice) and continued on our way.
We walked up the road and went through a five bar gate on the left. Beth then decided that this was the wrong gate, and so we went back through. We then worked out that it was the correct gate, and so went through for a third time. This would be the final time of the day, and it left me a parting gift of bird poop on my hand – nice. This quick little loop up and down bypassed a short section of the trickier road walking, and when we arrived back at the road we crossed over into the hot fields on the other side. We walked through the cricket filled grass and spotted the day’s only sheep across to the left. We knew that we were now only a little along from one of our favourites, Hartfield, which we did later identify in the distance by its church spire. We made our way across the familiar old rail line and over a bridge to pick up a path which ran, more-or-less, along the trickling Medway. At this point it was about lunch time, and so we identified a shaded spot (the day’s only real requirement) and sat down to enjoy our meal-deal whilst perched on a log. Once we had eaten we carried on, and the walk followed roughly along the water course. The main excitement came when we rounded a bush and almost bumped straight into a herd of cows. We quickly doubled back and gave them a wide birth. Fortunately, the day was too hot and they couldn’t be bothered, so stayed amongst the shade (very sensible decision). This was followed by a couple of arable fields, the wheat swaying gently in the soft breeze. We then crossed the river Medway once again, and a few minutes later, walked back beneath the rail line. A little way up, we arrived at a crossroad of paths. We turned right, over a couple of fields and up through some woods, before emerging out onto a concrete driveway. We made our way past an old, abandoned looking building, which turned out to be a former Christian-healing centre. This quiet, creepy building gave Beth the shivers as we walked quickly past. The driveway continued for a surprisingly long way, but was fortunately lined with trees and we spotted a couple more herds of cows off away to the right.
Eventually, we emerged back out into Groombridge. The sloped green appeared before us, at the top of which awaited a pub I had been greatly anticipating; The Crown Inn. This was another of those pubs we had driven by again and again, and each time I admired how tempting it looked. We walked up and entered the small beer garden out front, sweating from the day’s efforts. I managed to grab the last table, next to some Morris dancers, as Beth went in a grabbed us some cider. As I sat and waited, a screeching chorus tore through the air, announcing the presence of a large swift colony. Together they swept low over the green and passed the pub, and I was admiring their ever-breathtaking acrobatics, just as the Morris dancers rose to their feet. They descended the green and, standing before the pub’s onlookers, began to dance. Beth appeared with our ciders, and this was honestly as perfect as it sounded. The dancers danced, the swifts soared and we sipped our cool pints as the sun shone from a blue sky. Yep, perfect. This, is really what it’s all about. We clapped as the Morris dancers performed their routines, eventually retiring into the bar for some well-earned refreshments. We remained in our spot for a while, enjoying a couple more ciders as the swifts continued to scream and whiz past. I think this was probably the best pub stop we have ever had.
Eventually though, it was time to continue on our way. We arose from our seats, waved farewell to the swifts as they soared above the church and turned our attention to the short remainder of the walk. We made our way around the edge of Groombridge, past Groombridge Place, spotted some baby birds of prey in a nest box and were soon back at the car. Inside was as hot as you’d expect, and on our way home we passed a doe chilling at the side of the road, before picking up a suit from one of my groomsmen.
And then we were home, and another great day’s adventure was complete.
This was the first time we had done this route, and I for one really enjoyed it. It was the perfect day. Even in the vast heat, we had a lovely time, aided by the excellent refreshment stops available both halfway and at the end. I would definitely do this walk again, if for nothing else but enjoying a pint surrounded by swifts – two of my favourite things!
Matthew G. Huggins 
Lol, could you get more Darling Buds of May.
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