This simple route is one we have done several times and holds a special place in our hearts. Four years ago on a fine summer’s day, only a week after we started going out, we went for a walk around Scotney Castle and ended up in The Chequers pub for a drink and a Sunday roast. This really stuck, and as Beth lived in Lamberhurst for the first few years of our relationship, it ended up laying out the format for many a happy weekend. The grounds of Scotney Castle have loads of footpaths throughout, which over the years we have combined in different ways. On this occasion, we chose to do “The Big Loop” which encompasses just about everything, to mark four years of us and only one to go until our wedding!
Unfortunately, the day was not quite blue skies and sunshine, but more overcast and humid. Nonetheless, the day was without rain, which was good enough for us, so we set off from the Chequers car park just before 11.30am. Starting off heading up School Hill past Beth’s old flat, we turned right and walked out across the path through the centre of the golf course. This is something we have done a hundred times and have always been fine, however on this occasion a ball flew past us at speed only a couple of meters away – there is no way they didn’t have time to see us; let’s give them the benefit of the doubt and say it must have just been a terrible shot. As we began to descend toward the river, we walked around the edge of the churchyard and through a crop field which is evidently being rested for the year, in which sits Beth’s favourite tree. At the bottom we picked up the small river Teise and walked along the bank beneath the A21, before crossing a small bridge over the water and out into the countryside beyond. At the end of this field, we crossed a familiar stile, which marked our arrival into the far grounds of Scotney Castle. We made our way through a couple of fields in which live flocks of sheep with their little lambs throughout spring and early summer, but sadly they had gone for the year. After this we found ourselves walking along the edge of a couple of hop fields, whose crop had grown very high and felt very Kentish and just a bit magical.
Crossing over the river Bewl, we entered the beginning of the loop’s woodland section, which is often very muddy, although was no problem today. After walking for a while along a fairly flat footpath through the trees and past the sight of the old hoppers huts, we arrived at a crossroad where we turned left up a sharp incline through the woods. This stretch is fairly steep, and somehow always longer than we expect! It was here that we really began to feel the closeness of the day and by the time we reached the top, we both needed to sit on a well-placed bench for a sip of water. Breath caught, we carried on our way and emerged briefly out the other end of the grounds into the quiet village of Kilndown, where we heard the cry of a swooping swift, before diving back into the woods along an almost immediate footpath. A few minutes later, we reached a magnificent row of trees that look like they belong in Middle-Earth, beneath which we played the old “what would you do if you won the lottery?” game – by the way, here I discovered that Beth doesn’t think ten million is retirement money; guess we got some saving to do… At the end of the row, the path begins to steadily descend back down through the trees, eventually emerging into the more open grounds at the centre of the National Trust sight.
This next section is really the heart of Scotney Castle and over the years of our visiting has contained both cattle and sheep. Walking through the grounds past several large, handsome trees, we crossed back over the Bewl and began to climb slowly back upward on the other side. After making our way back up a short but steep slope, we found ourselves standing beneath a particular oak tree with a great view of the grounds, beneath which a certain rabbit likes to sit. We both patted the trunk and said hello, before turning toward the Scotney Castle gardens. These are very well kept and have a folly at the centre, set in the middle of a surrounding moat. We actually got to enter the building on this occasion, which was a first, after which we did a lap of the garden and said hi to the ducks, before heading up past the large stately house and stopping to treat ourselves to a couple of well-earned ice-creams. As we slurped at the mercifully cold cones, we made our way away from the buildings and gardens, and up the final hill of the day, before turning left and exiting the grounds.
Here, the descent back into Lamberhurst begins, during which time I thankfully began to cool off (or at least, sweat less!). Down past a couple more fields with a good view of the village that still feels a lot like home, back across the A21 and over the golf course (no close calls this time), we were soon walking across the village green toward the pub. After a quick pitstop at the car, we walked into the garden where we had spent more piddled afternoons than I can remember. Fortunately, our favourite seat at the back of the garden next to the trickling river beneath the willow tree was vacant and waiting for us, and so we sat. The Chequers garden is our very favourite and has a very friendly, welcoming but calm vibe. For a couple of peaceful hours, we enjoyed a few pints and a Sunday roast as the village’s swifts flew overhead and we spotted a happy little mouse skipping amongst the colourful array of flowers growing in the large bed in front of us. Sadly, with no flat to stumble back to, we could not enjoy as many drinks as we would perhaps once would have, although I am sure we will get plenty more opportunities in the years ahead!
This is, and of course always will be, one of our favourite ways to spend a Sunday. It is also surprisingly long in this variation, although the shorter versions are just as enjoyable. The walk feels very comforting to us and, particularly when combined with a trip to The Chequers, is one of our very happiest of places.
Matthew G. Huggins 